Advanced techniques to apply eye makeup


The purpose of eye makeup—whether it’s simple black mascara or dramatic contouring shadow—is to make the eyes stand out. When it’s done right, eye makeup can give the appearance of brighter, more beautiful eyes. Here I cover the basics, like choosing flattering shades and lining the eyes, as well as advanced techniques, like creating a smoky eye and applying false lashes.

Eye Brow Shape & Definition

You have seen what a difference a great frame can make a painting. It is the eyebrows that form a frame for your eyes. Beautifully groomed eyebrows make a huge difference. It is possible to transform a face with just tweezers, shadow, a brow brush, and brow gel. A professional will help you find your ideal shape. Once the brows have been groomed, it is easy to do your own upkeep.

All brows benefit from an added definition. Brow brushes and combs quickly tame and shape the brow hair. Brow shapers define, control, and shape the brows quickly and easily while adding just a bit of color.



  • Brow-Grooming Supplies
  • Brow brush
  • Brow pencil
  • Clear brow gel
  • Tinted brow gel
  • Brow shadow
  • Tweezers
  • Baby scissors for trimming extra-long or curly hair

How to Shape Brows

The start of the brow should follow an imaginary line drawn from the outside of the nose to the inside corner of the eye.

Special Cases

  • Nonexistent brows
  • Brows damaged by over-tweezing, age, or chemotherapy can be drawn in to look quite natural. Use a pencil the color of original brows, and softly draw in the shape. Layer a complementary color of powder shadow with a brow brush to fill in and soften.

Bare Spots

  • Bare spots can be filled in with light strokes of the pencil or with powder shadow. If neither works, try layering both.
  • Brows too far apart
  • Brows too far apart can be corrected by filling in missing brow areas with light pencil strokes. Balance the brows carefully. Layer powder shadow on top.



Tadpole brows

Tadpole brows can be reshaped with shadow. Fill them in to create a straight line.

  1. Choose the color that matches your eyebrows and hair.
  2. For a natural option, use eyebrow mascara to create the look of a natural brow.
  3. For more definition, use powder shadow. Start at the inner corner of the brow. Make sure you fill in all the gaps in the brow hair.
  4. Bring the brush to the center, creating an arch, and then turn the brush and go down.
  5. Make sure the brow is long enough.

Asian Brows

Asian women often have sparse brows and need to fill in the brows to match a full head of hair.

  1. Begin at the inside of the brow.
  2. Fill in the brow using a shade that matches it. Use the powder to add density so it matches the hair on your head.
  3. Lightly stroke along the length of the brow.
  4. Continue all the way up the arch, turning the brush as it goes down.
  5. Make sure the brow is long enough.
  6. Use a clear eyebrow mascara to brush up an unruly brow.




It’s best to get a professional shaping to begin. It’s easier to upkeep. Tweezing after the shower is less painful than at other times.

1 Begin by cleaning under the arch of the eyebrow. Remove a few hairs at a time, checking the results as you go.

2 Slowly tweeze, moving inward toward the thickest part of the brow.


Some unruly brows will benefit from trimming long hairs with baby scissors.

Grooming Brows

To fill obvious holes or lengthen overplucked brows, use either pencil alone or a pencil-to-powder method. Using an eyebrow pencil in a shade that matches the brow color, fill with a light, feathery stroke, mimicking the look of hair. If using a powdered eyeshadow, choose one that closely matches the hair and brow color.

Using a stiff, flat, angled brow brush, pick up a small amount of color, and tap off the excess. Lightly stroke the shadow from the inner corner of the brow along the entire length to fill it in. Stroke color along the upper edge of the brow to accentuate the arch and give a “lift” to the eye area.



Apply shadow color only to the hair of the brows. Finish with a coat of clear brow gel to set and tame any unruly brow hairs. Look at your brows. Does the shape and intensity of color look natural and balance the face? A dusting of powder can soften the color if needed. Use a brow shaper to tame unruly brow hairs.

The Perfect Brow

The start of the brow should be aligned with the inner corner of the eye. The arch is three-quarters of the way across the brow from there.


About Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual

Bobbi Brown (born April 14, 1957) is an American professional makeup artist and the founder and ex-CCO of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. Brown has written eight books about makeup and beauty. She is the Contributing Beauty & Lifestyle Editor of Health magazine and Beauty & Lifestyle editor of the Elvis Duran and the Morning Show radio broadcast.In 1990, Brown worked with a chemist to come up with ten natural lipstick shades. In 1991, the ten shades debuted under the name Bobbi Brown Essentials at Bergdorf Goodman.

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